Underrated Spain
Spain is very popular among Europeans travelers, but it’s less well-traveled by Americans. Relative to France or Italy, Spain feels conspicuously distant and foreign; much of what Americans learn about Spain revolves around Christopher Columbus. Although España isn’t as flashy as other European destinations, it’s stunningly beautiful—and it has just as much cultural heritage.
Like other European countries, Spain has its own long-standing handicraft traditions; it also has great contemporary brands. Because its shops are primarily aimed to appeal to the discerning (and cost-conscious) European market, Spain is one of my favorite places to shop.
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Weekly Favorites
(1) Damascene Earrings (75 euros) & Bracelet (170 euros) || Togashi Damasquinos
Damascening, still practiced in Damascus (from which it takes its name), is the tradition of inlaying gold or silver on oxidized steel. The technique has long been used for armament ornamentation. The Spanish industry got its start this way, when legendary metalworker and director of the Spanish Royal Armory Eusebio Zuloaga undertook the restoration of damaged firearms. Since then, Spain has become one of the leading centers of damascene production. Today, damascening is often used in jewelry and fine housewares. There is also more reasonably-priced ‘toledoware,’ which uses tin instead of steel.
The intricacy of damascene or toledoware lends itself well to daily wear, e.g. these earrings from Togashi Damasquinos, a small artisan shop in Toledo.
(2) Trench Coat (440 euros), Men’s & Women’s || Loreak Mendian
Founded and based in Donastia-San Sebastián, the brand Loreak Mendian has shops in Northern Spain. In Euskara (or Basque in English), Loreak Mendian means ‘flowers in the mountains’—specifically, the lush rolling mountains of Basque Country, bordering the Bay of Biscay.
With clothing that is well-constructed and reasonably priced, Loreak Mendian is one of my favorite contemporary brands in Europe. The brand features basics with a pop of color, which offers a subtle twist that ties together an outfit. (Note: although they currently list shipping costs only for Europe, you can email them to have DHL deliver to the US.)
(3) Séka Hills ($20) or Castillo de Canena ($28.99) || Arbequina Olive Oil
I first fell in love with olive oil in Oakland. During the few years that we lived there, Daniel and I frequented Belotti Ristorante e Bottega, an Italian restaurant which earned Michelin stars in 2015 and 2016. Belotti serves mouthwateringly good pasta, as well as incredible bread and olive oil. Fruity, nutty, and with just the right amount of spice, their olive oil has caused me to let out an audible ‘Wow’ every time I’ve had it.
For a regretfully long time, I was too shy to ask them where it was from, but I recently learned that they serve Spanish Arbequina olive oil from Séka Hills, an olive mill in Northern California run by the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation.
Before I knew about Séka Hills, Belotti sent me on a wild hunt for something similarly delicious. I tried a dozen different olive oils, including Laudemio Frescobaldi (which was too spicy for my liking). Finally, months of hunting led me to the Arbequina olive oil from Castillo de Canena, or Canena Castle, which finally hit the spot.
(4) Wedge Espadrilles (110 euros) and Espadrille Loafers (130 euros) || MONGE
In my opinion, Spanish espadrilles are some of the most stylish summer footwear, especially when you want a closed-toe shoe. Espadrilles are distinctive in that they are rope-soled, made with esparto grass. Originally peasant footwear, they were strongly associated with Basque Country and Catalonia, two reluctant autonomous communities of Spain, and the rope-soled shoes were then popularized in the 20th century by the likes of Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí, both from Catalan.
Today, espadrilles vary widely in price and quality. The historic espadrille was made with a canvas or cotton upper, made popular in the United States with Los Angeles-based Toms Shoes. But my favorite espadrilles are from a store called Monge in Mallorca. With options in suede and leather, you can feel the quality.
(5) Vintage European Jewelry || Agurcho Iruretagoyena Joyas
I’ve come across some wonderful vintage jewelry stores in London and Amsterdam, but it was a delight to discover a great collection right off the promenade of Donastia-San Sebastián. I’m obsessed with vintage jewelry; it’s more intricate than modern pieces, many of which are mass-produced, and it’s usually more well-priced to boot.
Agurcho Iruretagoyena Joyas carries vintage jewelry from all over Europe, but this is the first time I’ve seen well-curated pieces from Spain. The store carries some magnificent pieces from the 19th century, as well as Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. They ship globally; you can message them to inquire about specific pieces via Instagram.
Spanish Daydreams
Carl Jung once said, “Image is psyche,” an aphorism for the power of images. That line rang in my mind as I was reminiscing about Spain. What is it about the Iberian Peninsula that leaves such an impression? I feel like I could lose myself in some of the scenes I saw.
Certainly the 800-year Arabic occupation left its mark on Spanish architecture and ornamentation. Since the 15th century, however, Spain has been predominantly Catholic, like France and Italy. The combination of known and unknown is striking. Indeed, whenever I come across the unexpected geometry of the Arabic influence, I can't help but stop and stare.
Until next time, hasta luego! — Jean